As usual, were casual
would be the best way of putting across the way our preparations were on for
our 6-day break from our daily mundane activities. I was travelling from my
routine visit to Anand and Chaks was at office. Somehow we were able to wind up
our office activities and reach home by 4pm. I would say the plan of coming
back from Anand on Wednesday and getting the packing done was quite brilliant
coz this helped us to be relaxed on the day of travel. Somehow post having a
tea we pushed ourselves out of 402 around 5:05 pm to catch auto. 1 oldie and 1
“sweet 16” lady (Amma) was around to send us off. Around 5:20 pm we got hold of
an auto whereby the metre wasn’t working. How are we supposed to pay? (Might
have erupted in your mind, I know very well). The guy responded, ab thik samaj kar
de dena!!! At times it feels strange to find such people existing on this
planet. Anyways, nothing much
more to it and we hopped in. We reached the airport by 5:55 pm. somewhere down
the line it had in my mind that it’s a 1 ½ hr flight to Chennai. But then once
it started it dawned upon me that it’s a 3 hour flight and that too Hyderabad.
Alas!! Now there isn’t much that I can do except for my favourite pass time
activity – sleeping. The instructions, instruction manuals, moving air hostess
and screaming children didn’t make any difference to me as sleep was much
bigger and brighter for me. Chaks grabbed Think Everest book
by Atul Karwal and started off with it. This time it was taken
for the trip with a vengeance to complete reading it. Only hunger could stop me
from sleeping and we had our light dinner right at the nick of time as I was
already feeling hungry. This job profile has helped much in stabilizing the
food habits for me. Time pe bhukh to lag jati hai. We landed at Hyderabad by
8:30 pm and took off from there in ½ hr time. At 10:15 pm we finally landed at
the land of Rings & Dots (as Tamil language can be best described by me).
Kamraj Antarashtriye Hawai Hade mein aapka swagat hai…Chaks has listened this
line from me many a times and too an extent that she really gets bugged when I
give that look and she says…NAHI IIIIIII!. The struggle actually begins now. We
expected this flight to land around 9:45 pm and then catching taxi to Tambaram
station for catching our train. Now, we were delayed by ½ hr. Majorly the panic
button was pressed coz it was drizzling, secondly we didn’t know how much time
it would take to travel from airport to railway station & third the line
for catching a prepaid taxi was quite long. Long enough for us to lose patience
and get refund. Primarily coz we had paid 290 and were in the queue with
someone who had paid 40 and waiting for the taxi. How ridiculous can this
different attitude be by the issuing department? Before further thinking DON
dashed at the pre-paid taxi counter to know the status and seek refund. Around
10 minutes passed by I knew one thing that I should learn Tamil to atleast have
basic interaction and also some slangs to pick up arguments whenever required.
DON was already fuming! We were thru with our taxi out of airport by 10:40 pm
and Tambaram station by 11:17 pm (Precise coz got down right in front of the
digital clock). Somehow I managed to find out from the inquiry counter that the
train would arrive at Platform 8. To my horror, the platform 8 (our abode for the
next 1 hr, which I realized later by the announcement) there were loads of
people ready to travel. We hogged on some snacks and eagerly waited for the
train especially coz Chaks had got First Class tickets for us. We both
travelling for the first time in FC (Me for the first time since I recollect my
memory goes). A sincere doubt that came to mind was that isn’t FC & FC A
different. Anyhow, the point is that the train never came at 11:41 pm the
scheduled departure time of the train. Around 00:10 hrs somebody felt the need
to tell that the train is an hour late and would come over in an hour. For
further entertainment we had 3 dogs for our company. Biscuits formed their part
of dinner as well. 00:30 hrs the lady started screaming the announcement of
train arrival by 00:40 hrs. We hopped on to our bogie and got shocked. FC is a
better version of sleeper class except that we have our privacy. We didn’t have
the energy to continue discussing and felt asleep once the TT was thru with his
formalities and cabin attendant giving our set of pillows and sheets. Alarms
are the only good things that mobile do these days. It rang once and I didn’t
bother and 2nd time when it rang it was already 5:15 am. Yes, the scheduled
time had just passed by. To prove my horror wrong I immediately rushed to find
someone. A gentleman patrolling the AC coach told that we had just crossed
Chidambaram and continued mentioning that the train is 2 hours late. Alas!! To
be reassured waited for the next station to pass by. Once I saw the board of
SIRKAZHI station I woke up DON and informed her about the great news of delay.
As we reached ADUTURAI, the assistant came and informed. Around 6:35 am we
landed at Kumbakonam – The temple city of Tanjavur.
Kumbakonam –one of the oldest towns of Tamil Nadu with a population of
around 1.40 lacs, situated in the district of Tanjavur. This town was the 7th
century capital of Chola Kings. This is known as Temple Town – situated between
rivers Cauvery & Arasalar & also Cambridge of South India due to the
ancient and famous Government Arts College. The great mathematician Shri
Ramanujan had studied with Govt Arts College. Kumbakonam is famous for the once
in 12 years Mahamaham festival. The town is known for the brass vessels and
known also as Kumbakonam Vettrilai (in Tamil) due to the betal leaves
cultivation. (Don’t have any iota of doubt; this can only be done by
GOOGLE)
“Prabhu” our next character, the
driver and guide for us was there at the station with a Indigo (3040, rest
hmmmmm I don’t recollect). By 7 am, we were at the porch of the grand HOTEL
RAYA Annex. Room No 707 was the allotted abode to us for the next 2 days. Rs
1400/- for this classy hotel room was just amazing and hard to believe. For
this price I got a dingy hotel in Amreli and Jamnagar which wasn’t even airy. Getting fresh was the next challenge. As usual
and finicky as ever I started digging into my bag and getting things sorted
out. To my horror and Chaks glee (not that she knows or has been told till now,
when I am writing), I realized that I had only packed 4 andruz* (common
parlance – underwear). Flashback – I had washed 4 of them and they hadn’t dried
up and hence didn’t pick them up before leaving for the trip & little did I
realize that I hadn’t kept enough in the bags. However, present – took bath and
was ready by 8:35 am for starting our Navgraha visits. Prabhu re-enters with
Sri Balaji Bhavan – place suggested for our breakfast. One thing honestly that
needs to be said here is that this place has a lot of cleanliness and tidiness
in all its activities. Guys serving with gloves, ladies with moving dustbins to
clean up tables and classy food greeted us. Post breakfast discussion of road
map, routes to be taken and extras (temples) to be visited were being
discussed. Believe me “Prabhu” was un-catchable, I felt only for me and later
realized that he was typical core Tamilian with full tamil lingu overflowing
over him and now on us. We managed to reach on a common platform on the number
of visits for the next 3 days and schedule before starting off by 9:00 am.
9:35 am – Swamimalai Temple
This happens to be the 4th
of 6 main temples of Murugan (Tirupparakunram, Tiruchendur, Palani, Palamudirsolai,
Tiruttani being the other 5). I haven’t been to Tiruttani yet, one of the
closest to Chennai. Looking at the grandeur of the temple one can get the
feeling of the aura that this temple carries. The white brigades (all school
going kids in white uniforms with NSS badges) were the guiding stars within the
temple premises. A steep rising temple assisted thru stairs. I always felt that
Gujjus have the habit of carrying food along with them wherever they go but
they are everywhere. People irrespective of the places where they are place
themselves and their family and get started with food. It’s not just having,
it’s preparing, distributing and having. Strange that these big guys (temple
people) allow such things happening in the premises itself.
Post visit we met someone by the
name Ganeshan – a human prototype for Lord Ganesh. Rotund & treasurer for
various archanas at the temple trust office. On being asked what’s best for us
to do for an individual and family, he just started off in the local dialect –
rings and dots. Ganeshan made every possible attempt to explain everything
about the town, temple to visit etc looking right into me. But this rings &
dots just couldn’t take any other form for me but then each time his expectancy
level for a reply from me increasing and viz a viz my look at Chaks increasing
as well (Help!!!). However, the saviour Chaks and Ganeshan went on with the
ring & dots lingu. Someone fell for the explanation and the damage done - Rs
300/- ki ticket phati and Receipt No 54744 landed in our hands. 10 minutes, a
receipt in hand and we were out. Thiruvalanguri – Ganeshji Temple (Spell check
can’t be done on that, please) suggested by our own rotund Ganeshan got
immediately added to the list of other temples to visit. Somehow Prabhudeva
wasn’t keen for timing was running out for our Tanjavur temple visit – our
immediate target to touch upon by 12 pm. He conveniently suggested us that
being near to our base camp that can be visited next day also. So we proceed
towards Tingalur – Chandran Temple (Moon). Time 10:15 am
10:55 am to 11:05 am Chandran
Temple
This can be called one of the
quietest temples that we have visited over the period of time, maybe by the
nature of moon itself – silent and pure. The entrance had 8-10 people all
praising the Lord to grab attention in the best possible manner. Another tag
that can aptly be given to this place is Brand Yellow. Just scanned thru the
entire place to substantiate this feeling to find that Veshtis are in yellow,
bananas in yellow, flowers in haars – yellow and even the archana sacred loin
is also yellow as if this is national colour in this part of the world. My God,
what affinity to yellow. Wait till I convey this to some staunch temple visitor
and have an explanation on this done. On the way we had planned to visit
Thiruviyur.
11:10 am Thiruviyur – Samadhi of
Shri Tyagaraja Swami
Long-time back I used to attempt
singing Carnatic songs which I distinctly remember having this great person’s
name pouring in some way or the other. To add to this fascination to the name
is the fact that Chak’s Tatas ( Lachu & Ramu Tata) had conducted concerts
here. Absolutely serene with neither any noise nor people around. Besides the
place is a river bed, which I later realized is the place where river Cauvery’s
water flows. Now, its absolute sand and we can walk across to the other bank.
This is painful. One of the main reasons would be us only for the drought.
However, 11:20 and we moved further following TSRTC – 1797 bus towards our next
destination – Tanjavur Shiva Temple. A small coconut water road side break to
re-fuel ourselves. The morning masala dosai, vada and coffee had already
evaporated.
The drive down the country side
creates that urge for owning a SUV-type vehicle and driving down the entire
stretch of the country. Cultures, rituals, traditions keep on changing over the
span of kilometres. If at all there is a need to keep a track and understand
then you have to go thru these lanes of the beautiful country side. Incredable
India (as read on one of the buses that we passed by). Incredible India!!!
12:20 pm – The Grand Sri
Brihadeeswarar Temple, Tanjavur
Origin of this temple goes back late in 10th and early 11th
century. It’s in a fort build later in the 16th century. The
Shivalingam – Peruvudaiyar, is a huge one, set in a two storeyed sanctum. The
surrounding mandapams exhibiting architectural excellence dates back 1000
years. The monolithic Nandi, which dates back to the Naick period, weighs 25
tonnes and is about 12 feet height and 20 feet long.
A look at the temple and somebody
who is religious and likes visiting temples would love it. It’s not the routine
brick and mortar type. A beautifully coloured stones – typically yellow with a
tinge of orange in it all throughout and across. This temple more or less
reminds of Akshardham for its typical surroundings. The way to visit each
portion has been explained typically as in Vadakunathan
Temple. The mammoth Nandi is absolutely imposing and very much the most
attractive in the entire premises of the temple. Nandi’s presence is so ominous
that it can be noticed from any corner of the temple premises. Not only that,
Nandi is also placed on the entire compound wall all across the temple. The
central sanctum is equally amazing. I don’t recollect having seen such a huge
Shiv Lingam. Right from the time we enter the main temple we can spot the main vigraham and start off with our
grievances so that by the time we reach the pedestal we are thru and Lord can
start working on remedial measures to resolve or release us of it. Surrounding
the main temple are equally eye-catching temples of Ganeshji, Amman &
Murugappan. Around 12:25 pm we were waiting for Murugappan temple for His
darshan. It’s absolutely humid and sweat is pouring down from our foreheads
along with many who were waiting for the same purpose. The silence was suddenly
broken off with a dabba kutth. The
guy in front of us had his blaring ring tone set which would have awaken the
Lord Himself during the noon pujas going on. These creeps don’t realize the
importance of being inside the temple premises itself. Once thru with the
darshan we were out and directly reached the lady selling mamra & singh. We
had pre-decided based on the look on my face to have this on the way back. A
small market bang opposite the temple was another attraction. Those shaking
idols of the Brahmin couple were too imposing except the finishing of it.
However, the next stop was at
Shri Venkata Lodge. Ordering shapat was challenge thrown across by Chaks. I got
to order 3 of it and felt that each cost Rs 15/- which the owner in his
composed way said in rings & dots that its Rs 50/-. Plate full of rice,
bucket full of thair have landed on the table. Finishing this off was the next
challenge. Somehow I managed to do it. It probably is the hunger that took
over. Suddenly Chaks felt an urge to go
back to Tanjavur temple to get those idols of Brahmins. So as ordered Prabhuji
took us back and we reached the small market for our purchase. Somehow for the
same reasons we refrained ourselves from buying the same. However, we
immediately liked a beautiful book named Olai
Chuvadi by Dr Venganoor Balakrishnan. It talks about various traditions
that we Indians follow and why we follow it. Post our hara-kiri purchases we
proceeded towards the Guru temple, Alangudi.
3:45 pm The shrine of Guru,
Thiruavlangudi
We were way ahead of time at the
time. The temple opens after 4 pm. To visit the shrine we had 3 different
options. Free entry, Rs 20/- entry and then comes the Rs 100/- entry. The Lord
would pay special attention to devotees who pay Rs 100/- and comes over to meet
him is the feeling that comes when we watch such boards at the temple. Don’t
mind, even I try to access using this channel in other terms the green channel.
However, we got hold of the vilak selling lady and got hold of 25 vilaks for
the Lord. As instructed we reached Ganeshji’s place to light the first candle
at this shrine. It was as if He wasn’t quite impressed, inspite of devoted and
focussed approach the lamp wouldn’t light up. Chaks managed to light it up and
I got relieved. We proceeded towards the specialized oil chamber (excessive oil
spilled over the tray, floor, walls, wash basin everywhere possible) to light
up rest of the vilaks. Post this we managed to sneak into the line to visit the
shrine. Once inside, we were guided to one of the lines by the assistant gate
keeper, as there were 2 openings further. On reaching the Guru shrine we
realized that we wouldn’t be able to do our archana’s as we were in the wrong
line. Now this is crazy and it was really bugging after having reached the
place based on the instructions from their own people. Don woke up and actually
gave a mouthful to the assistant door keeper and ensured that he didn’t have
anything much to say rather than pushing us away. However, the priest at the
Guru shrine was courteous and accepted what we offered and gave our prasadams.
On the way back, Don once again nudged that fellow. We went ahead and offered
our prayers at the various other shrines around the temple. Chaks was visually
disturbed and I preferred to be silent and tried to drift her attention to the
rest of the shrines. Suddenly once we were through and were about to step out
of the premises, somebody called out from behind and Chaks & the priest
started off with R & D. At the end of it, we proceeded once again back to
the Guru shrine. Once inside we waited in case if the priest was to join us or
not. He came and stressed us to go ahead and he went out. He had suggested us
to go back to the shrine and spend a few minutes, sit back and then retreat.
Strange!! We reached back at the shrine and this time our Chaks offered a long
focussed prayer at the end of which she was all in tears. This part is really
touchy. Why shouldn’t they allow us to offer our prayers on having travelled
this distance? Certain questions which may remain unanswered, however on the
way back we couldn’t find him. Chaks said he was near that Guru shrine while
she was having the verbal bout. I never spotted him there. Well, to conclude I
would say it was His way of taking care of his devotees. Not letting them have
tears on the way back from the visit paid to him.
By 4:45 we were out of the temple
strolling to have some nimbupani and landed up having some neer lime which
tasted as if made with oil as an ingredient. We would that book Olai Chuvadi in truckloads at this
temple, which gave a relief that we were having the right thing in our hands.
Another classic thing worth describing here is that there was a gang who was
visiting this temple which ideally can be named as the Bandi Bermuda gang.
Major part of the male members of this group was in this dress code to visit
the temple and here was I covered from top to bottom. I really didn’t know how
to react to this. It would have been more convenient to be in this dress code,
but you know certain restrictions begin at home. These guys followed us out of
the temple and believe me I knew they would be a spectacle to watch at other
shrines too. Finally I got hold of the Navagrah temple book in English. To read
this is important coz some years down the line I would be able to recollect the
titles but then to know what I have seen and the sacredness attached to each of
it would evaporate. Secondly, Amma would also want answers to a thousand
questions. Atleast few of them would be answered by these books. Rest me and
Chaks will fill up. We started off immediately as we had to cover another 2
shrines.
5:45 pm The Shrine of Rahu,
Thirunageshwarar
As we entered the temple, the
assistant diverted me the right wing and asking Chaks to proceed towards the
left wing. I felt maybe it’s the order of the temple. However, on having
understood that she is the wife he allowed both of us together on the visits. His
special instructions (although I couldn’t make much out of it and you know the
reasons why) and providing us with the close by darshans had an in depth
meaning to it. An Rs 20/- offering. I am not demeaning his efforts of
explaining all that he wanted to explain and take us thru but just to add a
pinch of salt to it. We invariably won’t question about whatever he says and at
that point of time what he says is the ultimate truth. By the time you realize
or evaluate you must be miles apart from him. But at the end of it need to say
that this was a more courteous fellow than the other one at the Guru shrine.
The B & B gang as predicted were here as well. All rotund, gundu-pusku team
(as Chaks describes them) were lavishly roaming around the premises. The site
of vada bought out the hunger fangs of me and Chaks. For Rs 40/- we had vadas,
puliyodhar and kesari. Imagine by the time we walked out of the temple it was
all paper that was finally left in our hands. Ganeshji had a slanting temple
built for Himself. Once we cleansed ourselves, paid our visits and proceeded
further. An important thing held up since last couple of hours was flushing out
some hot water. The immediately accessible site as suggested by Chaks was worth
not going so had to hold it further. 6:25 pm we left the premises.
6:30 hrs Uppiliappan Temple
Courtesy Prabhuji we got an
opportunity to visit this temple. The shrine is of Shri Balaji’s brother
alongwith Bhumi Devi. One of the most ala grand vigrahams seen during the day.
This is one of the places wherein we have the shrine of Venkatachala-pathy
other than at Tirupati. It was quite a quick-n-murugan visit. By 6:40 pm we
were out of the temple.
Around 7 pm, we passed by
Govindapuram, a temple pending for visit and added tomorrow’s list of visits. A
temple dedicated to Vitthalji, Pandarpur. The gopuram is classically North
Indian type, beautifully lit up during the night. A rather huge one indeed. By 7:05
pm we were reading the board of Seetharam Vilas Lodge for tea-coffee. The most
important activity of relieving ourselves of hot water bags had to be quenched,
so Chaks went ahead. Meanwhile, the waiter caught hold of me and explained in
his typical R & D lingu the non-existent menu. My SOS hadn’t returned. I
dodged him for a few minutes by the time Chaks landed up back at the table.
Coffee and uttapam quenched us both and by 7:20 pm we were out of the lodge.
7:45 The shrine of Shukran,
Kanjanur
Quite and serene were the dieties
saying a lot about their vintage and importance of presence in our lives.
Anything and everything around the temple is in Tamil making me feel all the
more mediocre about understanding all that’s described around. Something that
could be made out is that the temple is almost 1600 years old. Knowledge
sharing happened with a 3-footer guide thru the temple name MUTHU. A dark,
dusky voiced small fellow took us thru the temple and various shrines around
the temple. What he spoke in Tamil was even difficult for Chaks to follow as it
was the desi local typical lingu which we mal-nourished fellows (in terms of
language) won’t be able to follow. I felt lucky and happy as Chaks was sailing
in the same boat. An important aspect that MUTHU helped us with was showing the
gopuram of the main shrine thru a window, which otherwise we won’t be able to
spot from the premises also. The shrines around the temple too have a similar
vintage. The upkeep and surroundings cut a sorry figure and feels miserable at
times. Temples have become more of a money minting location than spots of
sanctity, sacredness and piousness. That MUTHU was asking in one of our interactions
with him, whether we carried American dollars with us. Imagine the heights of
easy saleability of importance of the place. Obama would be glad that dollars
are known even in this small town of Kanjanur. A 10-rupee note was enough for
MUTHU to be glad this evening. By 8:05 pm we left for the Suriyanar Temple.
8:10 pm Suriyanar Temple
A couple of specialities of this
temple is that, it has all the 8 other Navagrahs placed within the holy
sanctum. Secondly, there isn’t a Shiva temple preceding the visit to the shrine
of Surya. Small yet beautiful temple of Surya. Offered our prayers and in
return a chitti for a donation of 1001/- towards annadanam. Chaks has offered
annadanams at places and this is an added one. Once we are back at Dwelling we
will have packets flowing from Kumbakonam in my name. I hope the fund reaches
the rightful stomachs and my special prayers for this event to be successful in
terms of feeding the needy. At the end of it, we happened to bounce upon a
poster explaining the mahatmiyam of this temple. It suddenly mentions that
there is a need to visit Pranavaradewarar Mangalanayaki Temple of Shiva before
visiting this shrine. You can narrate what happened next – Prabhu was
instructed immediately to take us to this temple. Prabhuji in his natural self
said its ok when we are visiting the both the temples on the same. Chaks bought
the argument and we went ahead to visit this temple as well.
Once we were out of the temple,
Prabhu gave a further extension to his earlier explanation that the visit to
this temple prior to Suryanar temple is required in cases wherein there is a
marriage delay for spinsters etc. Well, well!!! No comments here. Another ½ hr
and we were back at our hotel room.
The body made us realize the
exact weight of our limbs today as it really was feeling heavy. Though tired,
we had to hog something and we walked across the Hotel Sartha across the road.
Rayas are everywhere here. They have hotels (3 different types), halls,
restaurant (that we now visited) and across the town also you find this name
very prominent. Even on the website for this town you will find the Rayas. Some
of the temples that we visited today also had their names inscribed on posters,
wall papers etc. The vegetable pulav came to the table and was hogged within no
time. The lime juice lasted on the table for some time as this was huge in
quantity and quite tasty too. Another ½ hr and we were on board to take our
flight to sleepy lands. Good nite.
11th August 2012
Starting off the day at 7:30 am
was anyday tough for us after the military regime outing that we had yesterday.
Eventually we were out of our room by 8:05 am. Prabhu was all ready and waiting
for us in the lobby. Morning rings & dots for deciding the venue for our
breakfast landed us at Shri Balaji Bhavan. I have started liking this hotel and
also realized that the liking is mutual. The same waiter pounced on us with his
standard grin. Vadai, pongal and filter coffee starts off our day. By the time
I was in the car, Chaks & Prabhu was into their R & D for today’s menu
of visits. Somehow they have concluded on the route to be taken and me the
spectator waited for my set of English words to get a grip of what they were
talking. However, we are reaching the farthest most place on the first place as
the next set of temples are around this location. We would be touching upon
Govindapuram, Vitthalji temple. I distinctly remember Appa explaning the Shri
Krishna posture on His arrival to meet Vitthalji. Well and today we are at his
feet to seek his blessing
8:45 hrs Shri Vitthal Rukmini
Samsthan
A temple huge enough to
accommodate people and their feelings equally. This temple isn’t the typically
South Indian temple that we have seen yesterday. It has that North Indian
touch, typically Maharashtrian look. One step inside the threshold of the
temple and you can find the Lord looking at you. That itself gives so much
peace to that restless mind that walks into His abode. Beautifully arranged to
walk upto Him. Devotees enjoying themselves by chanting His name, dancing to
glory and many getting ready for their Kacheris
even. The ceilings and the entire interior of the temple leaves you
spellbound. So blessed would he who has designed this temple for millions to
walk in. The serenity and peace on the Lord’s face is so enthralling and giving
so many answers to questions never asked. Absolutely carrying you over and
giving out so much peace to your ever restless minds and hearts. I might be
repeating these but then this is a feeling that overcomes you during your presence
inside this temple. Typically at the end of the visit we look for hundial,
which isn’t available in this temple. Whatever you are willing to give goes to
Goshala. Not strange at all!! Serving mankind is equally pious. The Vigraham more like Lord Balaji, but
accompanied with Rukhmai (as the priest says it). This is in form of Balaji
Krishna originating from Lord Vishnu. All being the different forms of the same
Lord. At the end of it all that matters is the feeling that prevails in your
heart once you have visited Him. 20 minutes and we were out of the temple to
move towards Vaitheshwaran Temple – Mars.
This drive would be around 1 ½ hr.
We passed thru yet another 32-feet Anjanayeya
vigraham. The temple is yet to be created around the temple. Maybe by the
next visit this would be ready. On Saturday, He through His mystical ways has
made His presence felt for us. Rest the journey is typical country side –
twists, turns, non-allowing buses leading us. Prabhu already is in his 5th
gear with Tamil songs accompanying him in the background along with us. Chaks
is on and off with kutti tukams besides
me.
9:45 hrs Shri Vaitheshwaran
Temple
One look at the temple and we
would suddenly remember Rameshwaram temple. Huge gates welcome you and the look
thru the main gates gives a branch cut out across the main entrance. Beauty
personified. Once you enter only then can you make out the stature of the
temple. The typical archana to avoid any skin and other diseases is by doing a
self-puja with salt, pepper, jaggery and mustard. All said and done, the place
where we drop all this can be cleaner than what we see. Plastics, papers, old
leaves, flowers have ruined major portions of this age old temple. At every
pedestal there are numerous pujaris offering prayers, assistance and prying for
their next set of devotees. Even they who would be visiting the temples daily
don’t shy away from creating more damage to the neatness of such a sacred
temple. One such pujari caught hold of us, Mr D Rajan, offered his assistance
in going thru the chores of the temple. Offered prayers at Arul Mikha
Vaithainathan Swamy, Arul Mikha Thaiyalnayaki Ambal shrines. A 20 here, a 30
there and lo 1600/- too!! Santhana saukhyam per se. One thing admirable was the
glow on his face. Not many have that on their face irrespective of being in the
premises for years long. He gave away prasadams, a haar for me, kumkumam and
couple of other packets for safe keeping as well as distributing. He believes
we would re-visit. Surely we would let us be blessed with what we all been
praying for. Amman vigraham and prayers offered to Her bought out emotions thru
tears in Chaks eyes. She might have felt that I haven’t noticed, but that
didn’t escape my eye. Certain things said between her and Almighty shouldn’t be
questioned, I realized. Meanwhile, another gatti got hold of us but then we
were better off on our own for a change and escaped him conveniently and got
thru the darshan, valath vekhyal and post lighting the velakh were out of the
temple.
11:30 am Shri Thiruvengadu
Mangaiyar Madam
It’s an absolutely breezy temple
with a huge compound for all dieties. Sweydharanyeshwara Swamy, Sri
Brahmanidhyambhal (as specified in the book Birmavidyambikai) is the different
dieties placed here. Shivji is above all this. He is the most integral part of
every Navgraha temple. Bhudhan temple is all about knowledge & learning.
Our special prayers were offered for our Sornam back home. The receipts are
torn left, right and centre. Entry has one, offerings have one and even to
offer there is yet another one. One guides to the other and eventually we
finally were able to gather everything together and put it across to the
Almighty. Every one of them wants to see the Almighty together and typically
pushes one over the other as if He is going to run out of the temple within
some time. The pujari at the Bhudhan temple was courteous enough to offer
everything that was handed over to him on the idol and pleasing the Almighty.
Inspite of all that is being offered to Him, the beauty just gets enhanced.
Something strange that got noticed is the small broken brick structures
handmade behind the Ganeshji prathishtha. Couldn’t make out what exactly is the
idhiham behind making such things or is it that one
followed the other. However, another quick round of visit Agoraha Murthi, as
earlier the veil was put across the vigraham. Believe me during this visit
really felt that Tamil should be learnt atleast this surely helps read out all
that’s written with lot of heart and soul on the walls of the temple. Thru with
Shri Budhan and off to meet Shri Kethu.
Certain alarmingly noticeable
things across these temples are the amount of filth, dirt and waste that gets
gathered in around the compound of the temple. Not only this, even within the
main saniddhi we find this getting gathered. People leave no stone unturned to
add more. Leaving eatables, applying vibhuthi
at the nearby pillar is simply the normal way of life. Mobile seems to be the
next important thing to breathing these days. A kuttu pattu, ugly romantic
songs, blarring English music are something which falls on every ear at each
temple premises. These things might change but then somebody would have to take
an initiative to put a foot down to get this started off. However, meanwhile we
proceeded steadfastly towards Shri Kethu Bhagwan as we were running out of
time. Our Shri Prabhu was running towards this temple as conveyed to our
dearest Chaks.
12:30 pm Shri Keezhapereumpallam
Temple (Kethu)
A typically small temple with
hoards of buses flowing into the temple premises as if all roads from
Kumbakonam has been turned towards this temple. However, having reached in time
was the most relieving aspect of the morning half of the journey. Visiting Amman & Shivji is like an everyday
event for Them and for us now. Lighting the lamp and pushing thru the crowd for
our prayers to reach Kethuji was the primary objective of praying at the
temple. Some wisemen has scripted the importance of Kethuji and the help he can
render on us thru our lives. However, the best part was the last few lines
whereby it was specified that in case we need to have his grace, better please
Shri VInayakar. Ganeshji has an imposing presence across everything and you
just can’t avoid or ignore Him. Stars which naturally have the favour from
Kethuji is Ashwini, Makam & Moolam. Our lineage already has few comrades
with this star – Renuka Chitti, Kanchana & even Ashwin. I hope that our
prayers should help us with some grace from Him. Just enough to take us thru
this birth atleast. Next time, tab ki tab dekhi jayegi. In about 20 minutes, we
had conveyed everything to Kethuji, as usual chitti bhi phad di and were out.
I overheard that now is a 40 km
drive directly before landing anywhere else. Well, suddenly our Prabhuji came
up with a suggestion to visit the Shri Abhirami shrine (Thirukadayur) on the
way. A temple well-known across this part of the country for the 60th
anniversary, birthday celebrations that can be offered over here. It was 1:15
pm and the chances of making it within the closing time were like winning a
lottery at that point of time. Well, we landed and by that time Shivji had
closed his darshan times. However, Abhirami Devi’s shrine was open and we
sniffed thru a highly volatile crowd and sneaked thru. We managed to breathe thru
on our journey to the nearest spot near the Devi. By the time we were thru with
our prayers and was taking our valath vekhyal, the guards and assistants
started yelling at us. Now, this is where I enjoy coz he would be yelling
something in rings & dots and I wouldn’t make a head or tail out of it.
Within the next 5 minutes we were out. Now the long drive towards the Shani
Temple. As told, the temple remains open throughout and further this is a Saturday,
by God’s grace we would be visiting the temple on Saturday itself.
Shri Kandaas helped us out to put
water to our hunger fangs. Tair sadam, biryani was enough to take us thru for
the next few hours. Heading towards the Shani Temple. On the way suddenly Prabhu came up with a new
eruption – Abhirami Temple. A temple usually chosen for 60th
birthday celebrations. As it was 1:15, the temple remaining open was a
challenge. The main shrine of Shivji was closed, however, Sri Abhirami’s shrine
was open and we could offer our prayers. In this part of the town, the Devi
vigrahams are decorated with a lot of heart and soul and they look quite
splendid and we feel quite elated at the first instance itself. All our
feelings just start venting out with full emotions as I have observed this over
the last couple of days. Immediately before we could realize that we had
visited the temple in the nick of time, the entire temple staffs were behind us
to throw us out of the temple and get the same closed. Like herds we were out
of the temple within another 5-7 minutes.
2:45 hrs Shani Temple,
Thirunallarur
This is an absolutely mazy
temple. The bars had covered the entire periphery of the temple. We went on
walking round and round. At a certain point once again Gandhiji worked and this
time in its pink colour (Rs 50/- Special Darshan, cut thru half the mazes
around). We were roaming once again in the inside circle and landed up with 2
pujaris and a patrolling lady who took care of our archana items. Another heart
reeling site is the amount of waste around the shrine and other areas of the temple.
Amman temple was the first to be visited and then within no time, we were right
in front of the vigraham. Our archanas offered and suddenly Chaks got into the
fancy ride of the pujaris and wanted yet another archana to be done for me. Rs
600/- paid and blessings followed in small packet with his number and other
contact details. This too will reach Dwelling. The postman is going to have a
good time in getting these delivered. Not to forget, we got a mala for
ourselves to wear.
This was the last among the
Navagrahas to be visited. Task I target achieved. This was a long cherished
wish that Chaks had in mind for a long time. Believe me, except for certain
glaring aspects of cleanliness, certain amount of discipline (mobiles,
clothing), these places surely holds a lot of importance in itself and needs to
be understood and re-visited at all our
times of restlessness.
4:30 Thirupanpuram, The serpent
temple.
By the look of Chaks and the
packets she gathered from the vendor I realized that we are having truckloads
of archanas to be offered here. We started off with the vilaks at the 7
different locations around the temple premises. Then the pujari offered the
prayers in the loudest possible manner as if he is directly communicating with
Almighty in the sky. Amidst everything I forgot to mention, while we were in
the midst of the pujas a gang of black beauties with 7-8 bald kiddies landed in
the middle of the temple and talking so softly that their talks at one end of
the temple could be heard at the temple. And the kiddies seem to be working on
Duracell with the amount of noise and talks that they were having amongst
themselves throughout and that too non-stop. The ladies were super-class and
followed the principle of treating Almighty like friends for they were using
local slangs well within the temple premises (well, I didn’t understand Chaks
conveyed this to me) for talking to one another. At the end of it all, we had
around 5 plastic bags full of archana items. Result: A couple of garlands
around our neck as if we were the demi-gods for the evening. Photographs,
vibhutis and not to forget Rs 501/- receipt for yet another annadanam offered.
Chaks disbursed a coin into the hundi, something that she was carrying all the
way from Ahmedabad and also some other material into the nearby pond. Finally
we started off back to Kumbakonam to pleasantly end the day
The countryside is extremely breath-taking
except for the lack of rains around. A discussion about Gopurams across TN
temples made us laugh our heart out. I was of the opinion that somebody
extremely talented might have been given an order to prepare Gopurams for
existing and new temples across the state as most of them more or less appear
in the same pattern. Yes, the vigrahams are different from each other, but the
concept eventually remains the same. However, getting Chaks a bit agitated was
fun. On the way itself, we passed by a kiddo managing a flock of goats in a
small cycle. What country side talent man!! Bells of hunger had started ringing
within and hence within no time (By 5:45 pm) we landed at Hotel Aarasu for a
coffee break. Had a couple of idlis to sustain myself. By 5:55 pm we were out
and by 7:00 pm we were dumped at our hotel by Prabhu.
Later part of the evening was
spent walking across the market price (As the auto wanted a chance to take us
for a ride – quoted Rs 50/- for a kilometre distance) We walked and walked and
walked and realized that Kumbakonam has much more than we have seen during the
morning hours. Streets full of people (due to holiday & Id) trying to buy
everything that is available with cash or cards. Strolling across the roads we
saw boards of jewellery houses – Kalyan, Jos & even Joy. Controlling Chaks
from visiting any of these is pretty tricky. However, the temptation was survived
and we strolled further. Maybe an hour had passed by and we concluded that we
would need an auto to take us back to Square 1 – Hotel Raya Annexe. Dinner was miya ki daud masjid tak. We landed up at
yesterday’s hotel for dinner. Repeat telecast of items ordered yesterday. Now,
the worst part, I had ordered a cone icecream and that moron landed with a cup
icecream on the table. Frustrating!! However, once thru with this we retired to
our rooms. The medical store across our hotel seems to be having a sale as
people just hover around ordering items as if there isn’t any tomorrow. Strange!
Good nite!
Getting up schedule even on
holidays remained the same. By 8:20 am we were out and landed at Meenakshi
Bhavan for our breakfast. Fuel for today started off with vadas, nai roast with
coffee. The Ganeshji temple that we had skipped on the first day was on our
agenda today.
8:55 am Shwetavinayakar Kovil,
Thiruvalancheri
A huge colossal premise of the
temple was standing in front of us. The build-up of the temple should be ages
old looking at the architecture, inscriptions on the numerous pillars of the
temple. The main vigraham of Vinayakar is small and pure white in colour. As
explained by the pujari in R & D, the vigraham got created by the flowing
river Cauvery. The look at the premises gets you connected to the Kandiyur
temple, Mavelikara which has such a huge compound. Another speciality is the
Maa Kali vigraham in a serene mood. One of the rare things associated with Maa
Kali. Today the vigraham was adorned all
in whites. The Amman shrine was as usual beautiful. Believe me the imposing
structure, pillars and the silence that prevails in the premises itself is so
enthralling. Beautiful is an understatement. Out at the temple gates, as a part
of the ritual, Rs 301/- was offered to conduct puja on my star for the next
year. I hope all the Almighty’s immediate subordinates don’t have a celestial
fight for our family well-being for pujas offered to be done clashes with each
other. However, around 9:25 am we were out on the roads. Suddenly Prabhuji came
up with a suggestion, which resulted us landing up at our next destination
9:30am Sri Sainath Temple
A small Sri Sainath temple
wherein there is an idol of Sai Baba placed. We offered our prayers, had
biscuit prasadam, touched feet of His (Marble feet) and were out of the place.
Yet another brainwave of Prabhuji
9:40 Darasuram – Iradeshwaran
Temple
A beautiful plush green lawn and
temple compound in the middle. Yes, the walls of the temple had a striking
resemblance to the Tanjavur temple. Sari sale people got fancy for us and
started selling their products and location verbally. The gopuram spoke on its
own about the vintage of the temple which we realized once we entered the
temple. On entry we find a lot of pillars and we actually search for the temple
vigraham. Then straight thru across rooms and we land right in front of the
Shivji vigraham. This is a temple built
in the 12th century by the 3rd generation who built up
the Tanjavur temple. The lingam is placed on a lotus. Archaeological dept has
taken over the premises outside the temple premises. Temple devasom takes care
of the temple and its pujas. Don’t freak out, all this gyan was given by
the temple pujari. To add further, he specified that the sari salespersons that
were outside, all fake and attempted to divert us very well. However, I was
spellbound by the imposing structure and its beauty. Every pillar had so many
stories to say with beautiful inscriptions on it. The silence in these temples
is something that is equally attractive. You feel so much at peace and would
love to speak our heart out. Once we were out, Chaks tactfully dodged the sari
salesperson and I landed up at the paid loo. I just realized the loo and garden
were properly maintained unlike many other locations. By 10:00 we started off
to Velankanni Church. Have messaged Dan, Tyju and Shirley, in case, they have
something special to convey to Lord.
This road actually covers the
beautiful country side. The ride is 90 kms in length. Twists and turns to keep
your bums busy throughout the journey and awake as well.
12:15 Velankanni Temple, Velankanni
We were
dropped right in front of the huge church standing in full white and the sun
falling on it giving it more glows. On the opposite side is the old church of
Velankanni. Before we could walk to right or the left side, we proceeded
straight towards the washroom and relieved ourselves and most importantly paid
to get relieved. There is a long stretch
where people are staying as if they have been here for months together. They
are busy with preparing food, few of them sleeping and many others trying to
catch hold of their herds (read as children) roaming around the ground. A
granny passed by and the most noticeable feature was her earrings which seems
to have an interlocking system. They seem to be larger than her ear. Moving
further we realized that this happens to be the Golden Jubilee year for the
church (turning into a basilica) and hence there was a huge rush of people from
different states to visit the shrine. Finally we reached the church (which
later we realized wasn’t the actual church). We offered our prayers at the
shrine. People from all walks of life were there under that common roof and all
of them have something or the other to be said. The idols were having their own
beauty, which can’t be described in words. Once we were someone gave us the guru gyan that this isn’t the actual
temple of Velankanni. It’s something behind this place. We were in the main
church within minutes. The idol is so attractive
with beautifully expressive eyes. We
moved towards the old church in an auto. Just didn’t have energy to walk
further. The small church was quite a small one with loads of people pouring
in. We both had the holy water from counter seeking His blessings even. Here
too the people have made themselves comfortable in the gardens around the
church for their routine daily activities including preparing food. A Maa &
Sprite bottle helped us thru to the next spot the market, in the auto. The
market stretch has the classic aroma of sea food all thru, which was enough to
make us smell like fishermen. In between both the churches we have the Church
of Confession, a huge statue of Jesus standing with open arms. There were
people all around visiting each of these places. The heat dropping down didn’t
have any effect on the people and they were moving around enjoying themselves.
The church doesn’t restrict visitors in their dress code or footwear. People
come in whatever attire that they are comfortable. Even inside the church we
have people in slippers, boots etc. We tried to find some book on finding the
reason for Velankanni being so huge an attraction across India. The museum book
stall is the only place in the entire church area where you get book on it. We
tried out all the possible outlets for it, but couldn’t find it anywhere. And
the bad luck is that the place was closed till 3 pm. The clock was striking 1
pm.
The market was
scanned thru every inch by Chaks and utensil stalls were the main attraction.
Somehow she refrained from buying anything. We managed to get Velankanni
stickers for ourselves and gifting purposes. Finally we landed up at the beach
to find that the amount of people in the church would be equivalent to the
amount of people on the beach. Water has always been a fascination and weak
point for me, which even Chaks knows. I just couldn’t resist the site of sea
water and wanted to jump around in it, but the fear of my jump landing on
someone else already there made me control myself. Kids, ladies, men of all
sizes and stature were enjoying to their fullest. People are hardly bothered
about anything that they are wearing or carrying, they just get into relaxing
mode when it comes to water. Over the years I have realized that water (in any
form) brings out the unity among human beings in the best possible forgetting
all that religion has taught us. Even during rains, we find people helping any
stranger caught in the middle of nowhere and departing with a smile. If at all
this can be extended across various other reasons, boundaries and countries we
would surely have more reasons to smile and less reasons to depart from each
other. After having spent ½ hr in water and strange look on Chaks face made me
realize that this is it and better get out. Around 1:45 pm, all drenched in
sea-water and carrying a lot of sand, we turned back towards the towering
church. On the way back, Chaks had a breakdown – slippers gave away. Composure
regained with a small glass of lime juice and back to our shopping spree. Bloody
Dan messaged for prayers to be offered on his behalf and starting of his new
company. The drenched trouser was carrying a lot of sand. In between all this,
Chaks landed with purchase of kadai & chamch. All drained and tired we
reached the boundary of the church and placed ourselves in front of the museum.
Chaks went ahead to offer candle and prayers at the Velankanni Calling centre.
This place has a unique appeal in terms of the statue put up – the statue of
Mother Mary carrying Jesus. This is something that I haven’t ever seen in my
life. Another sparkling incident to be specified here is that the blessing here
is salt & pepper. Yes, just recollected that the same was the offering at
the Sri Vaitheshwaran Temple. What a coincidence that the Lords didn’t
differentiate in distributing blessings and we have erected places of worships
individually for them. All sorts of
people passed by discussing everything and anything under the sun. A few kids
were running around and more little ones thinking and figuring out the reasons
for their visit to such places under the blazing sun. A couple of foreigners turned up besides us
and the snow white kid was looking all perplexed trying to figure out the
reason for his presence in front of the church. Finally the clock struck 3 pm
and I rushed towards the museum to catch hold of the book on Velankanni. To my
luck, it was opened and we went thru the entire book section. It was quite
beautiful and had books on various topics. Another 15 minutes, we were in the
car heading towards Tiruvarur. Goodbye Velankanni, trust all that have been
prayed would be answered.
A drive of
around 45 minutes and we landed up at Vasan tea stall for light lunch. Superb
parottas, kurma curry and coffee and lo!! we were thru. Another hour passed by
thru the beautiful countryside turning left and right, we landed at Raya
Annexe. We finally bid our Prabhuji good bye with lot of promises and money
too. (Rs 4450/- plus Rs 500/- for his rings & dots, driving around and
beautiful songs that he played). All drained and back in the room. After the
bath got a shock that we are going to meet Ramana Dikshitar, the kingpin who
orchestrated the entire visit behind the scenes (only seen thru phone). Someone
has got ready in a sari and instruction flown is that I need to be in veshti…where
is the belt? (The moment has arrived for you to play your role).
Well, this
couldn’t have ended this way, is all that I can say for what followed during
the later part of the day. Just read on.
We somehow were able to make the autowalla
understand where we had to go. Then he, his pushpak viman and we started off
colouring the town green on the routes we took. Believe me, I felt yesterday
that what we saw was the only part to which the Kumbakonam town was extended
but this was much more than that. The lanes that the autowalla took were never
ending and took us to all parts of the town it seems. By 8:30 pm we were dumped
by the autowalla at the farthest most corner of Kumbakonam, the Dikshitar’s
house. Around 5 baldies were available at different spots of the house reciting
loudly in the famous posture that you find normally when students are trying to
mug up all that they want to learn and otherwise even. One of them welcomed us
and placed us in corner of a huge hall that welcomed us. One corner was
occupied by Ramana Dikshitar conducting his Sandhya vandanam and asked us to
wait. Another corner had a notorious baldie trying to conduct his set of
activities unlike the rest of them who had occupied yet another corner with
books in front of them. The recital was on at a good decibel level, which as
usual I couldn’t decipher as this was much beyond the R & D that I have
been used to hearing since the last 3-4 days. RD got thru with his set of pujas
and then came over to talk to us. Believe me, he is a reader is something that
clicked me once he sat to converse with us. Immediately after the formal
introduction and queries about our stay and visits he immediately inquired
about a visit to parihara temple
Garmbharakshini Amman for motherhood. The answer was obvious. The
pleasantries regarding visiting, knowing people and town etc was just a cover
up, which now I feel has no relevance to the visit to him and the purpose which
was taking form. Immediately RD insisted on visiting the temple which is around
17 odd kms from here. A call to Prabhuji from Chaks, a call to his boss by RD
ensured that we need to get ready by 6:30 am for the visit to the temple. The
rituals to be followed were primarily explained by RD himself. However, he even
conveyed that this would be explained by the temple authorities even. Mind well, he even immediately called up the
temple pujari to check whether he can extend the closure timings (it was 7:40
pm then) if possible to rush a visit in the evening itself. However, this was
prolonged to tomorrow. He a couple of times was behind me for my gothra which
was a weak point for me. 3 years ago I was required to submit this detail for
claiming my eligibility to get married. Once again, this question came before
me and this time my saviour Chaks actually pulled me out of it. By 7:50 pm
after having listened to all that he could say and Chaks could muster to reply
(as usual staunch strict Tamil flowing out of his mouth was something that
Chaks could only dodge to kill time), me only listen we started off to leave. This
is a ved pathshala and RD handles the future of 12 pandits at this place. We
obviously had to be a part of it and that can be fruitful instantly only by
Gandhiji (Rs 1001/-). On the way back, I was refreshed that during the evening
conversation between RD and Chaks, the priest had question about the visit to
the same temple. So, we can conclude that everything was planned and this had
to happen so the visit was insisted and rest fell into place. He and his classic
way of conveying things to us mortals, impeccable is the word for it.
Back to the
dinner table at Hotel Sartha and today we had truckloads of people for company.
Around 20 odd foreigners wearing rudrakshs, bead necklaces and having tilaks on
their head had placed themselves in more than ¾th of the hotel. Each time the
waiter would bring something for the table and announce a few of them would
raise their hands and then hog them. A baldie among them happened to visit one
of the kitchen it seems coz he was explaining how to use a seva-nayi. Another one was amazed at the look of the roasted papad.
She started off staring at the look of it, then smelled it and finally tried
eating it. Wholesome entertainment for the next 20 odd minutes and then
courtesy the billing desk of the hotel, we were able to get print outs of our
tickets for tomorrow. Tomorrow after the morning hara-kiri would be signing off
from Kumbakonam. Goodnight.
Morning the
alarm helped me get up at around 5:30 am and we managed to be out of the room
by 6:50am. Prabhuji called exactly at 6:30 am, which has been the best part of
him – being punctual. A drive of around 25 minutes, post a quick coffee landed
us at the temple premises of Sri Karbharakshambikai & Sri Mullaivananathar.
Basically it’s a Shiv temple with Amman Kovil (in the mentioned name). Before
we could assimilate ourselves together to pray the campaigning guy called us
and explained the procedure of doing the puja/archanas at the temple. The basic
reason was to get his bonnie done. Rs 150/- given and things started falling in
place. Not far within the temple premises another Rs 135/- plus Rs 10/- were
offered to the vendor for our prayers for ourselves and imagine that we were
yet to enter the temple. Pujari came at his leisurely time and helped us out
with what all needs to done as suggested by the great shop keeper outside the
temple. Similarly we conducted our rituals as suggested. This temple is known
for its ability to get marriages done for unmarried people, safely and soundly
protecting to-be-mother’s womb and giving results to expecting mothers. I
sincerely hope all our prayers during this trip would get answered in the
quickest possible time for these are combined with high level of expectations
too.
This remote
temple in the remotest part of the happening Kumbakonam is having CCTV. The
look of temple itself spoke about the vintage of the temple. It seems to be a
very old temple with the vigrahams on the gopurams all worn out and losing it
colour. However, it has a strong aura and feel good factor attached to it. Out
of the temple, once again set of pujas to be conducted and its receipt got torn
(Damages worth Rs 500/-). No offense meant to the people conducting it and more
for the people who really believe that they would sent across the confirmation
(in any possible manner) for the pujas done, I was sceptical about it and
voiced it to Chaks even. This doesn’t shake my belief in Him and His ability to
grant us what we need/desire for at the rightful moment. We would have spent
around 45 minutes and were out. On the way, Prabhuji got us to another temple,
Shri Papanasam - a temple where we can find 108 lingams of Lord Shivji at one
place. A serene yet beautiful temple of Lord Shivji, wherein 106 lingams are
placed under one roof and the rest 1 other than the main idol is having a
separate location. The Amman temple has an exquisite beauty in this part of the
country. In case this is a repeated line, then please pardon, but this is
emphasised. Another 15 minutes and we left the countryside. We reached D V Tea
house and the waiter took a fancy for Chaks and asked her details – home town,
language that we speak etc etc. I was enjoying this spectacle and not only that
this made my life all the more easier, atleast this fellow wouldn’t stare at me
constantly. Well, by 10:15 am we landed up at the hotel and by 10:40 picked,
packed up ourselves and we were out of the hotel. 10 minutes from then waiting
at the station for the train. Goobye Kumbakonam atleast for this time.
The train was
late by around 15 minutes and as our seats were in different bogies we were
assisted by the TTR in landing on one seat. There isn’t anything noteworthy to
be taken back from the train journey to Cuddalore Port, where we landed by 1:30
pm. Auto to the private bus stand of Cuddalore Port. The private buses as
suggested were available every minute but then each of them got filled the very
next minute. Somehow we managed to have seats and started our journey to
Pondicherry. This place that we had hired for the next 2 days seems to be out
of the main town itself. We had a tough time getting across the proper auto to
bring us to Hotel Mango Hill. Welcome desk at the hotel itself were infested
with foreigners. The suite opened with a space equivalent to our guest room
back in Dwelling. The features included a dimly lit room WITHOUT TV, a lavish
bathroom with Jacuzzi, a laid back porch for relaxing and a beautiful view of a
beach around 6 kms away (something quite opposite to the distance specified on
the site). The room service was exquisite as we had to remind them about what
we had asked them to serve. The location of the hotel is such that, we couldn’t
even trace on the map of the city, that was provided to us in the room. A lousy
Wi-Fi connection which the reception team conveniently conveyed would work only
outside your room (read as nearby your room). For more than one reason (forgot
to mention, NO TUBELIGHTS EVEN), I felt Hotel Raya was a better hotel than this
one. Lazed around in the evening with nothing much to do or even SEE. However
for tomorrow we have made some adventurous planning. The day would kick start
with hiring a bike and then roaming around the city for the entire day. The
poolside had a wonderful note mentioning some set standard rules which included
not using it after 6, having a shower before you jump into the pool. We luckily
spotted 3 violators for this and then suddenly realized that in India these
days; A. Lincoln & JFK are more valued than pink and green notes of Gandhi.
The menu made for the hotel even was in the same line wherein only pink &
yellow Gandhi would work and to some extent green even. Well, after having seen
and criticized so much we headed back to our rooms to escape the new terror –
mosquitos. Early retirement to bed was the call of the day, as we have a long
day to go tomorrow.
Day 2: Good morning, Pondy!!!
Lazy is the
theme for the day. Inspite of all the efforts that I made I still got up around
7:30 hrs. The awakening of the day was pretty quick, courtesy Hotel Mango Hill.
Call 1 for picking up laundry to the reception desk and a long pause. Call 2
for reminding. This is just beginning the day of feeling weirder and put off by
the courtesy of the hotel. By the time we were down for our travel, as expected
the bike wasn’t available. Round 3 begins at the reception desk. Both of us
gave a mouthful at the desk. By the time we got the bike it was around 9:30 am.
The immediate search points for the next ½ hr was petrol pump and breakfast
corner. Round 4, the nearest pump was out of fuel and finally reached the next
station. No change, saar. This is
round 5 for the day. A road side hotel helped us with our morning breakfast.
The waiter cum owner was someone who over hears everything and came over to ask
what we need for atleast a couple of times. Another ½ hr ordeal and we were out
after breakfast driving the Activa thru the countryside of Pondy. The next stop
was Shri Aurobindo Ashram. The volunteers who run the show at the ashram are
extraordinarily hyperactive in directing people across the entire place. The
silence at the Samadhi is really alluring. Huge loads of people land at this
place, meditate and then move over. Believe me, I haven’t heard about this man
much or am not much read about him. Anyhow, the next place was the most
interesting part of the visit. The library consisted of all literary works
written by Shri Aurobindo. Believe me, this place consisted of books and
writings of over around 20 languages, which I have seen for the first time in
my life. My aim was to understand all about him and what has made him what he
is. We got a few of them to our content and proceeded towards the Ganeshji
temple which is in the opposite side-line of this ashram. What a contrary type
of atmosphere in a distance of 50 odd metres, is what strikes me. The
Ganeshji’s temple is all about pomp, grandeur and all religious fervour. The
temple has images of Ganeshji from various countries embodied on the walls and
ceilings. We had rice porridge as prasadam. Then we started off the drive across
the various streets of entire Pondy. The roads in this city are all inroads and
there isn’t much distance between various points as presented on the lavish map
that we took from the hotel reception desk. Next 2 ½ hrs we were driving
continuously initially in the thrill to explore the city, then to know what’s
worth looking at, then just to quench the thirst to go thru every lane possible
and not to miss anything. The only break that we took was at an Iyengar sweet
store to have some snacks. By the end of the driving, was thoroughly exhausted
and really wanted some absolute re-fuelling. We decided to have lunch from
outside and landed up a restaurant. The lunch was just trying to survive over
the strenuous morning. Another important aspect of the travel was visit to the
utensil shop to buy chamacch and kadai, of all things in this world. The drive
back was to Auroville, the globe. This place was beyond our hotel another 7 kms
in the wilderness. On the way, we crossed over a village with few shops and
lo!! An ICICI branch. Numbers of foreigners were roaming around on various
modes of transport, even of cycles. The distance was beyond 7 kms, and by the
time we reached the globe we were thoroughly exhausted. We never had the
intention to go inside as this was a meditation centre. We saw the place from
outside and got to understand that this area of Shri Aurobindo is spread across
around 990 acres of land having various spots of interest. We receded back to
our hotel around 3pm. The next place of visit was my favourite destination, the
beach. The sea in its entire vastness and serenity was there in front of us.
Few lovebirds were enjoying their time here. I enjoyed my time in the sea with
Chaks being the usual designated care-taker for belongings. Enjoying on own isn’t
something that we enjoy at the beach. Within the next ½ hr we launched for the
next attack which was the pool. Both of us, was lazing in the pool like the
hippos. Chaks tried her level best at learning swimming for the next couple of
hours. Lying in the pool is an ideal thing that we all should indulge in
atleast with maximum frequency just to feel light of all the things in this
world. This helps to cool our body and relax it to the maximum extent possible.
We had our evening tea and snacks at the pool before relaxing at the room. With
nothing much to do, I was back on the laptop with mails and few phone calls.
Evening, we mustered ourselves up to have our dinner at a nearby restaurant
which we had spotted on our way back to hotel this afternoon. The Marine Drive
restaurant. The food was really good. For the first time since we reached Pondy
we stretched ourselves in front of the TV at the hotel. We spent some time on
the newspaper, stretching our need to have the cab on time (unlike today
morning), for travelling back to Chennai to catch the flight. Then we receded
to our room to finish our packing. The day ended with the final round of
reminding the hotel guys for the cab for the next day morning drive to Chennai.
Finally, it would be Goodbye to Mango Hill & Pondy.
Day 3: Goodbye, Pondy
Morning
started off pretty well except for 2 light tremors. One, our cloths that had
gone for ironing hadn’t returned back. And second and the lightly heavier in
size was that the car hadn’t arrived at the porch as ordered as there was some
confusion and the evening fellow hadn’t informed the morning guy to order the
car. Believe me the later part of the confusion came to light once we had a
good breakfast at the hotel. Both of us thrashed the hotel reception guy left,
right and centre. However with a 15 minute delay the guy could arrange for the
vehicle. Luckily the driver was quite good except his rowdy look. He drove at a
decent pace till the chai-kitli. We were nearing Chennai by then. A series of
phone call started to Chaks friend for finding the exact location of his house.
Somehow with-in 4 hrs of our departure from Pondy we were at Chennai, Ganapathy’s
House. Believe me, I was astounded. He had a bungalow in a metro. Can you beat
that!! Lucky guy. A palatial house with 2 floors which had every essence of a
typical Tamilian family house. Met his parents and explored the house in
totality. Each moment made me feel the need to have such a bungalow of our own,
where the earth beneath us and the sky over us both are ours. Someday I will
get that in place. Wish the closest of them are all there to enjoy those
moments of life, for I am sure won’t be assimilate them all together fast
atleast. This was topped with a good lunch. Thanx to Chaks and her friend the
afternoon food was very well taken care off. Back to airport for our trip to
Ahmedabad. Alas!! Yet another holiday comes to an end. The saddest part of the
trip has just started to sink in. But, the memories would stay for the longest
possible time.
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Kumbakonam & Pondicherry : A flashback down the Memory Lane
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